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September, 2001
There is a famous scene in the movie
Mommie Dearest
where Joan Crawford (played by Faye Dunaway) beats her
young daughter, Christina, with wire hangers. Christina is accused
of not taking better care of her clothes—hanging them on wire hangers
instead of on, we are to assume, cedar or padded silk ones. Putting
aside the horrible nature of this abusive relationship, the scene
makes apparent that, for Crawford, how one wears one's clothing
is as important as how one cares for one's clothing.
Is Crawford correct? Does the way
we care for our worn objects say as much about us as they way we
wear them? It is interesting to note that in Euro-American culture,
the expression "in the closet" refers to a person who is "hiding"
his or her supposedly "true" (often sexual) identity. What is cached
in the closet is the real and extremely personal essence of someone.
In the film 9˝
Weeks, Elizabeth
is frustrated with her lover John, about whose personal life she
knows very little. One day, as if searching for some element of
the familiar or personal, she decides to open his closet, and disappointedly
finds stacks and stacks of neatly-piled white shirts and an array
of carefully hung suits. She becomes upset, but why? Is it because
she could not find anything personal in these artifacts or because
the carefully-ordered closet suggested an identity that was unappealing
to her—a latent homosexual or perhaps a psychopath? For whatever
reason, in Euro-American cinema at least, neat and clean are depicted
as the exclusive domain of the feminine or effeminate, and to see
these character traits manifested in a man is troublesome for her.
Peter Stallybrass has commented that
the care for clothing has had gendered connotations:
[...] outside the capitalist marketplace,
where the male weaver and the male tailor became increasingly
the norm, it has been women who were both materially and ideologically
associated with the making, repairing and cleaning of clothes.
It is difficult fully to recapture the density and complex transformation
of this relation between women of different classes and cloth.
But throughout most of early modern Europe and the Americas, the
social life of women was profoundly connected to the social life
of cloth (43).
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