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A much more stoic example of the
skinhead phenomenon is evident in Pisanello’s Ginepro d’Este.
Ginepro means “juniper” in Italian, and a sprig of juniper
on this woman’s sleeve alludes to her first name. A member of
the noble Este family of Ferrara, Ginepro’s hair is pulled off
of her forehead with several ribbons to reveal her graceful profile.
The depictions of flowers and butterflies demonstrate Pisanello’s
affinity for nature and his support for the Gothic style popular
at the time.
Top
Right: Ginepro d'Este, by Pisanello, 1440 (2)
Bottom Right: Madonna
del Fiore, by Leonardo da Vinci, late 15th century (3)
No discussion of the Renaissance
(however brief) is complete without a discreet bow to Leonardo
da Vinci. Most famous for the Mona Lisa, that enigmatic
woman whose identity remains a mystery to this day, da Vinci’s
nod to the hairless is evident in a lesser-known work, the Madonna
del Fiore. Fiore is Italian for flower, which is exactly
what the baby Christ holds in his chubby little hand. The Madonna
smiles affectionately as she watches her son’s concentrated interest
in the flower. Like the other examples presented here, the female-pattern
baldness is in full force: the Madonna’s hair is pulled tightly
off her forehead in a series of concentric braids that present
the viewer with a broad pale expanse.
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My how things change. If Jolique
packed her bags today and headed for the Amalfi coast, she’d more
likely encounter bronzed, oiled skin and thick voluminous manes
of hair than the ghostly pallor and thinning hair seen here, but
we'll save that for another edition...
October 15, 1999
Bibliography:
-Carrington, Fitzroy, ed., The
Print-Collector's Quarterly, Vol. 4, No.3, Houghton Mifflin
Company, New York, 1914.
-Corson, Richard, Fashions
In Makeup, Peter Owen, London, 1972.
-Dimier, Louis, Histoire
de la Peinture Française: Des Origines au Retour de Vouet, 1300
à 1627, Librairie Nationale d'Art et d'Histoire, Paris, 1925.
-Faure, Elie, History of Art:
Renaissance Art, Harper & Brothers Publishers, New York, 1923.
-Martinie, A. H,. Pisanello,
Les Editions Rieder, Paris, 1930.
-Yalom, Marilyn, A History
of the Breast, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1997.
Photo Credits:
(1) Dimier, Louis, Histoire de
la Peinture Française: Des Origines au Retour de Vouet, 1300 à
1627, "Planche XXIII. #2. Vierge a l'Enfant. Musee d'Anvers,"
p. 39.
(2) Martinie, A. H,. Pisanello,
"Ginepro d'Este," plate 13.
(3) Carrington, Fitzroy, ed., The
Print-Collector's Quarterly, Vol. 4, No.3, "Da Vinci's
Madonna del Fiore," p. 233.
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