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In the 1650s styles began to change
and the band became softer and more draped at the front, and evolved
into what was known as the cravat (cravatte,
incidentally, is the French word for tie). The
cravat's inspiration sprang from the brightly-colored and loose-fitting
neckscarves worn by Croatian soldiers hired as mercenaries by Louis
XIII during the Thirty Years' War (which ended in 1648). The Croatian
neckscarf was more practical than the starched, hard-to-clean linen
bands worn by the French. Binder (1958: 279) suggests that Croatian
soldiers may also have worn them for spiritual protection:
...[T]he close military throat-wrapping
of the late seventeenth and eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries
(wrapping at last so tightly drawn that both officers and privates
regularly fainted during manoeuvers) was tenaciously retained
by soldiers throughout Europe because the rumour had gone round
that it afforded special protection in battle, magically stopping
enemy bullets or sword-thrusts.
Although some have attributed the
"invention" of the necktie to the Croatians, some suggest it was
developed much earlier by the Romans. Roman soldiers had fought
in the Balkans way back during the Roman Empire. To protect themselves
from cold and sickness, the Romans wore neckscarves called fascalia
(see "All About Ties"). Croatians supposedly continued
this fashion trend into the 17th century. The fashion became global
after the Thirty Years' War, when the Sun King honored the Croatian
troops at Court. After that time, wearing a neckscarf in the Croatian
fashion became known as à la croate, from which the words
cravat and cravatte originated.
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