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The cravat that later became fashionable in England and France (see left) was more fanciful than that worn by Croatian soldiers, however. In these countries, the cravat evolved into a large, lacy bow with ends that hung several inches below the chin (referred to by some as a towel). Sometimes instead of a bow, the long ends of the fabric were tied with special cravat tassels. The steinkirk became fashionable in the 1690s and it, too, was inspired by military attire—in this case, the Battle of Steenkirk in Flanders in 1692. It was characterized by a very long (six feet or so) piece of muslin or linen with fringed or lacy ends. It was tied loosely at the neck and then tucked into a buttonhole. Left: A typical example of the lacy cravat worn in England in the late 17th century (author's illus.) |
| The stock (right) was a neckwear undergarment of sorts. It was a piece of fabric that tied at the back of the neck and had two horizontal slits in front. Through these slits a long neckcloth was pulled and the ends gently draped down the chest. |
Above: The stock, a neckwear undergarment containing two slits through which a long, decorative piece of fabric was threaded (author's illus.). |
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Numerous iterations of cravats, stocks, steinkirks and bands, accompanied by an endless array of accessories for fastening them (such as buckles, pins and cords), followed in succeeding centuries. In 1818, an essay on ties titled Neckclothitania featured a frontispiece with cravats tied in different manners. Some of the names of the knots include: "Mathematical," "Gordian," "Ball Room," and "Maharatta" (Hart, 42). Although business casual wear has cut into the tie's popularity, for some the tie remains a quaint relic of fashion history. For many men (and some women) the tie is worn proudly as a colorful expression of political affiliation, school spirit, a favorite hobby or musical taste. Some (Flugel 1969 [1930]; Edwards 1997) have even suggested that it's a phallic symbol—an extension of (or perhaps a substitute for!) one's virility and masculinity. Regardless of its symbolic meaning, to an otherwise drab, gray uniform, the necktie simply adds panache and personality. No wonder it has survived so long. Bibliography: - "All About Ties: A Common Thread
Over Time." Ralph Marlin & Company. <http://www.ralphmarlin.com/all_about/timeline/main_copy.html>
(2 March 2001). |
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