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October 15, 1999 Today, fashion magazines of various titles, such as Moda, Elle, Glamour and Vogue all contain advice, instruction and information on the latest runway hits and sartorial must-haves. Those of 17th and 18th century European well-to-dos were no different. Indeed, the cultivation of beauty was a popular subject in many books and journals. Publication of recipes and techniques brought beauty secrets to the masses. Of course, many men and women frowned upon the use of cosmetics (even now), but for some, that is what gave them even greater appeal. The fact that they were interdit made their use even more popular. But why the stigma in the first place? What social faux pas was created by wearing rouge? After all, ancient Greeks found nothing wrong with it--they painted their lips with vermilion and vegetable dyes. Even Queen Elizabeth I was known to paint her lips. But during the mid- and late-1700's in Europe, things changed rather dramatically. The use of cosmetics, particularly the use of rouge, became a class indicator. Good girls didn't; bad girls did. Prostitutes placed rouge on their lips and cheeks to mimic the effects of sexual arousal. (It is well-known that the body undergoes a natural flush during arousal—the skin glows, the lips and genitals engorge with blood. Red lipstick and pink face powder imitated these natural effects.) Prostitutes used such make-up as a signal to their male “suitors” of things to come. And they wore it not just on their lips and cheeks, but also on their nipples and genitals, in order to enhance the arousal of their, uh, clients. In fact, some scientists believe that the purpose of our protruding facial lips, which are unique among primates and quite similar to the genital labia, is to arouse the opposite sex. As with many beauty customs, however, the original sexual implications of cosmetics have been lost, and instead their use has been elevated to an art form—we often refer to cosmetic professionals as “make-up artists.” And rather than being limited to colors that mimic a blood-engorged sexual frenzy, we now find cosmetics in colors of blue, green, purple—colors that are used more as an artistic enhancement of our features than as a promise of sexual favors (though that may also be an objective!). |
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Another reason why cosmetics were verboten was because their use, just like that of corsets, bustles, wigs and high-heeled shoes, was considered a deceptive practice. In fact, during the late 18th century in England, the (male) Parliament passed a law making it illegal for women to wear cosmetics, form-altering clothing, etc. For them, altering the natural form in any way was a form of trickery and witchcraft, punishable by law: "All women, of whatever age, rank, profession or degree, whether virgins, maids, or widows, that shall from and after this act impose upon, seduce or betray into matrimony, any of His majesty's subjects by the use of scents, paints, cosmetics, washes, artificial teeth, false hair, Spanish wool, iron stays, hoops, high-heeled shoes, or bolstered hips, shall incur the penalty of the law now in force against witchcraft and like misdemeanors, and that the marriage, upon conviction, shall stand null and void" (Corson, 245). |
Above: 18th century (?) costume (1) |
