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Konniti wa! If you've had any exposure to Japanese culture, you will be familiar with the kimono/obi ensemble—the traditional, wafuku (native) form of dress. Hundreds of books have been written on the language of kimono and what it reveals about its wearer. Jolique is not that ambitious. Instead, this week she'd like to offer just a little taste of "kimonese" by focusing on one of the kimono's most crucial accessories: the obi. To understand the evolution and language of the obi, however, it's necessary to understand a little history of the kimono. The kimono is believed to have first made its way to Japan about 1,600 years ago, evolving from dress worn during the Chinese Han dynasty (roughly 2,000 years ago). Its original purpose was that of an undergarment, made of thin, white fabric, worn beneath layers of clothing. Left: Jolique in a simple kimono/obi ensemble. The "obiage" is the obi scarf; the "obijime" is the obi cord. Notice the long sleeves with rounded edges. Both the length and cut of kimono sleeves are different depending upon one's age, gender and marital status. Jolique's sleeves indicate that she is a young, eligible and très sexy shukujo (but of course, you already knew that). |
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During the Heian era (9th c. to late 12th c.), the kimono evolved to an outer garment worn first by women and later by men. At the time, it was called a kosode, an outer, knee-length robe. (The kimono was not named such until the Meiji era (1868-1912), when the word, which means "worn object," was created to distinguish it from other forms on non-Japanese clothing.) The woman's kosode had a V-shaped neckline, called a tarikubi. Underneath this robe, women wore a skirt called a mo, and then trousers, called hakama. Men, always reluctant to try out the latest fashions, continued to wear the more traditional Chinese-influenced robe, with a rounded collar (called agekubi) and loose hakama trousers. (Mind you, I've outlined only a few aspects of Heian dress. In fact, formal Heian wear would have been composed of many layers of clothing—as many as twelve! The two or three layers mentioned here would be considered less formal attire.) During the fourteenth century (the Muromachi period), things became a little more radical, however. The robes became longer, and women (gasp!) stopped wearing their hakama (trousers) entirely. What an uproar (not to mention an updraft) this must have caused! Naturally, some adjustments had to be made, since the ties of the hakama were what held a woman's robes together. (Without them, the torso would be exposed). This is where the obi came in. |
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