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Originally, the obi, worn by both men and women, was a simple narrow sash worn about the waist to hold the folds of the kimono in place. As a purely functional element of clothing, it was tied in front. The hip and trendy women of the 16th century (called asobime) wore obi made from long, tasseled silk cords. The less chic and beautiful wore simpler, somewhat wider obi of cotton or silk. During the Genroku period (late 17th c. - early 18th c.), kimono styles changed considerably. Just as our hemlines rise and fall with seasonal fashions, so did the "fluttering" sleeves of the Genroku period. In fact, the sleeves of kosode robe grew so long that they nearly grazed the floor. A thin, narrow sash would have looked ridiculous with such long sleeves. Consequently, the obi widened in order to maintain a proper sense of proportion. In addition, as the obi evolved from a purely functional item to a key fashion accessory, the obi knot slowly revolved to the back. |
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Just as the scarlet wedding dress of a Euro-American woman might ruffle a few feathers in the church pew, or a man's ice blue tuxedo might garner a few comical stares, so does the kimono/obi ensemble have its own guidelines for taste, gender, age, season and formality. Left: Two Muromachi era (?) ladies. Notice the one sleeping on the wooden "pillow" in order to maintain the shape of the hairstyle. From Tales of Old Japan (1). |
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Focusing specifically on the obi, it should not be too surprising to learn that only the finest fabrics will do for special occasions. Formal attire also tends to be more restrictive in terms of movement—formal obi tend to be very stiff. (Neither of these aspects is particularly unique to Japanese clothing, by the way. In Euro-American culture, for example, formal attire often involves an uncomfortable pair of high heels and an asphyxiating necktie.) Obi also reveal sexual distinctions. In general, women's obi are stiffer and wider than men's. On formal occasions, for example, a man might wear a kaku obi—a fabric belt about two inches wide and knotted at the back. However, the heko obi—a simple, loosely-tied bow—is worn as part of a man's informal attire. The woman's obi has evolved somewhat differently. The thin, corded heko obi worn by men is not part of the women's kimono wardrobe. (Aside from looking disproportionate to women's long kimono sleeves, the heko obi's loose, droopy bows and "accessible," front-tie style presented too obvious a metaphor for a woman's morals.) Instead, women tend to wear much wider obi—ranging from about six inches to twenty-seven inches for a bridal obi. Stretching from "pubic bone to sternum," kimono expert Liza Dalby says, "...[T]he obi grew from a cord into a sash and then to a great wide girdle of cloth in the late 1700s. [In so doing, it] lost some of its original function—to hold the kimono in place." Color and pattern also play a role. In the past, certain colors—red and purple—could be worn only by royalty. Although this is no longer true, color still has great significance. Black is the most formal of all colors, and a black obi, worn with a black cord and sandals, is worn only during times of mourning, and even then, only by those closest to the deceased. In contrast, only a dead person, or a bride (mourning the "death" of her youth and innocence), wears an all-white kimono and obi. Silk, brocaded obi are reserved for formal occasions, whereas simpler cotton prints are acceptable as informal wear. Men tend to wear subdued greens, browns and blues; whereas women tend to wear lighter, brighter hues imitating plum and cherry blossoms, sea foam, and bamboo. |
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