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The manner in which the obi is tied and its position on the body are also important. Most obi knots derive from a single "boxy pouf" called the taiko. From this general style stem several variations that distinguish an old, married woman from a young, single lady. The number of styles afforded to the single lady are greater than those afforded to the older, married woman. Just as in origami, where colorful sheets of paper are cleverly folded to produce animals, birds and flowers, so might a young lady's obi be tied in the fanciful shapes of an iris, an egret or a turtle. Where obi position is concerned, the general rule is the younger (and more sexually inexperienced) the female, the higher the obi position. A girl's obi, therefore, is tied high on the ribcage; whereas an older, married woman's obi rests on her hips. The obi accessories, such as the cord and scarf, echo this rule: the obi cord (obijime) is placed on the top third of a girl's obi and the brightly colored scarf (obiage) peeks over the top of the obi about two inches; on an older, married woman, the cord rests on the bottom third of the obi and the scarf is barely visible. (Geisha tend to wear their obi lower, near the hips—a subtle indicator of their sexual experience.) Left: Obi and obi accessories arranged depending on age and marital status. |
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Unfortunately, kimono are seen less and less in Japan. Men have abandoned them almost entirely in favor of the Euro-American business suit. They are also less and less popular with women, and are often seen only on older women, brides, or geisha. Technology no doubt has something to do with this—after all, a kimono might not be the most practical clothing on the subway, in the grocery store or on a bicycle. But thankfully, fashion has a way of coming full circle, and Jolique remains optimistic that kimono will someday enjoy a renaissance. After all, the full-length Victorian ball gown is still seen at operas and weddings; bell-bottom jeans can be seen on nearly every U.S. college campus; and Madonna's hennaed hands will no doubt inspire an Indian fashion revival. In fifty years' time, who knows? The kimono might be the thing to wear to an art opening! Think twice before throwing away your grandmother's beautiful glossed silk kimono, brocaded obi or handsomely-carved geta—fashion is the ultimate recyclable. Interesting Links to Kimono and Obi History: http://web.mit.edu/jpnet/kimono/ Bibliography: -Dalby, Liza Crihfield. Kimono: Fashioning Culture.
(New Haven: Yale University Press, 1993). Photo Credits: Ledesdale, Lord, GCVO, KCB. Tales of Old Japan. (London: MacMillan and Co., Ltd., 1908), 34. |
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