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Solvent Extraction:
A Kinder, Gentler Alternative
Though distillation can be used as
a method of obtaining most essential oils (80%), it can not be used
for all. Why? Many white florals disintegrate quickly under the
violent boiling methods of distillation. In addition, the constituents
of jasmine and narcissus are so volatile that they can not be condensed
by the still—their oils literally dissolve into thin air before
they can even be condensed! So for the remaining 20% that do not
respond well to distillation, there are a few other methods, one
of which is solvent extraction.
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Above: Geraniums
ready for distillation (Photo from the early 1900's) (1).
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Solvent extraction was first used
in the petroleum plants of Pennsylvania and was later applied to
perfumery in the early 19th century. The process is as follows:
as soon as possible, the flower petals are harvested and taken to
an extraction plant. The blooms are then loaded into huge tanks
and hermetically sealed. A solvent is passed through the tank (much
in the way that clothes are dry-cleaned), but only the fragrant
oils are removed, not any dirt or grease. Today, the solvent employed
is usually petroleum ether—it has a low boiling point (60 º to 80º
C). As the solvent collects the oil, it may also collect any plant
waxes or paraffins, as well as pigments.
The solvent is then evaporated, and
what is left is known as "floral concrete," a left-over solid due
to the presence of paraffins. The waxes are removed by putting them
in an apparatus called a batteuse, and then mixing them with ethyl
alcohol. The oils pass into the alcohol and the wax is removed.
Then the oil must be extracted from the alcohol by distilling it
in a vacuum to maintain the low temperature necessary to the preservation
of the fragile essences. Jasmine, violets, hyacinths, carnation,
boronia, oakmoss and Spanish broom respond best to solvent extraction.
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