Love Notes
...but is it sweeter than perfume? Perfume compositions are often compared to music; perfumers use terms such as "notes," "arpeggios" and "accords" to describe the complex relationships between odors. A jasmine accord, for example, may be a grouping of different types of jasmine odors. The individual odor molecules that form a scent are often categorized as "notes." A fragrance's top notes (les notes de tête) are the ones you smell first and are the most fleeting. Then come the middle notes (les notes de coeur); they represent the scent's central theme. Finally, there are the bottom or dry-out notes (les notes de base). These last the longest and are often comprised of animal or leather notes. As a general rule in perfumery, odors are categorized into seven notes, which are: |
||
|
Above: Bergamot (1) |
|
|
|
A floral note may represent single floral or a floral bouquet. Green notes are those with a distinct "crushed leaf" scent. The oil of tomato plant, for example, may be described as a "green" note. Camphor falls into this category, as do pine and mint. Lavender lies somewhere between green and floral. Citrus contains the citrus fruit peel scents, but also bergamot, neroli and petitgrain. Orientals represent fragrances with strong animal/leather notes that may also contain spices, incense resins, or woods, such as sandalwood, cedar and patchouli. Some oriental blend perfumes include: Youth Dew (a scent that probably rests on your grandmother's vanity table), Opium and Shalimar (a favorite of Jolique). Chypre is French for the island of Cyprus, and the mythical birthplace of Venus, goddess of love. A chypre note may be a blend of oakmoss, gum labdanum, bergamot and sandalwood. Perfumes with chypre notes include: Femme, Miss Dior and Crêpe de Chine. An aldehydic note contains an aldehyde, which is a synthetic (more about that next week). Aldehydes are used to give perfume sparkle and light. One of the earliest and most famous examples of an aldehydic perfume is Chanel No. 5. Leather notes were once created from the animal proteins and other ingredients used in the tanning process. Animal notes were originally created from natural animal sources, though most, are now synthetically replicated. Leather and animal notes add warmth and persistence to perfumes. |
Above: Myrrh (2) |
|
