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The implication of these ancient laws
was that upper class Assyrian women were required to veil, but lower
class women, including slaves and prostitutes, could not. Indeed,
the penalties for "inappropriate" veiling were severe, and
included punishments such as cutting off the ears (El Guindi, 15).
In Mamluk Egypt (1250-1517), veiling
was an openly recognized sign of upper class prestige
(El Guindi, 104):
During this period in urban centers,
veiling the face and covering the body in public was considered
a mark of a woman's high rank, respectability and inaccessibility.
Among a number of honorific titles to address women two are of
special interest, because they explicitly use terms of dress,
and specifically the veil: al-satr al-rafi' (aloof protection)
and al-hijab al-mani' (inaccessible partition) [...] Both
titles use metaphorical dress vocabulary, satr and hijab,
to descried the valued privacy attached by the culture to women
and the family. Only servants and slaves did not, indeed were
not allowed to, cover the face.
Such prohibitions against veiling
exist today among some cultures, such as among the Tuareg of northern
Africa. Neither Tuareg women nor slaves are permitted to veil (El
Guindi, 124).
The Bible
has its sumptuary laws, too. In Corinthians I 11: 3-7,
Christ laid the law for the appropriate attire of his pious subjects.
Interestingly, veiling was prescribed for women but proscribed for
men:
Every man praying or prophesying,
having his head covered, dishonoureth his head. But every woman
that prayeth or prophesieth with her head uncovered dishonoureth
her head: for that is even all one as if she were shaven. For
if the woman be not uncovered, let her also be shorn: but if it
be a shame for a woman to be shorn or shaven, let her be covered.
For a man indeed ought not to cover his head, forasmuch as he
is the image and glory of God: but the woman is the glory of the
man.
In Italy, where women veiled for centuries,
veiling posed a unique problem. The luxury of anonymity, which the
veil afforded, allowed a lower class person the opportunity for
upper class imitation (Hunt, 420):
While sumptuary laws were concerned
to secure a stable connection between appearance and entitlement,
the social conditions in which it did so were every day making
the achievement of its goals ever more unrealizable. The history
of women's veils attests to the instability of external appearance.
On the one hand, the veil exhibits piety and modesty, but, on
the other hand, it signifies allure by facilitating concealment
of identity. In Italy there were tensions between clerical and
secular sumptuary activity over the wearing of veils. While the
Church favoured head covering as symbolizing religious piety and
sexual modesty, the secular authorities were concerned that veils
could also encourage conspicuous consumption. In addition, veils
allowed women a problematic anonymity. In Sienna officials were
empowered to demand of a veiled women the name of her father or
husband.
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