| Though many men may find
women's fashions frivolous and fickle, Jolique assures you that men
have a bizarre fashion history all their own. This week, Jolique takes
on the codpiece, the 13th century
progenitor to the jockstrap. (Note: It was hard to find artistic examples
of this unique male fashion accessory that didn't look completely
pornographic, so Jolique put pen to pad and drew a few of her own.
If they don't look much like the real thing, they at least indicate
how desperate we are for a decent illustrator...) First seen in Minoan
Crete 3,000 years ago, the codpiece, an undergarment
accessory worn by men, reached its fashion zenith in the
European Middle Ages. The word gets its name not from a fish but from
Middle English slang—cod means bag
or scrotum. |

Man's
best friend? A codpiece with personality (author's illus.).
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Also called a
braguette (which, by the way, is not a loaf of French
bread), the codpiece looked kind of like a sock (remember Flea in
the Red Hot Chili Peppers?), which attached to the crotch area of
a man's hose or breeches with buttons or ties. Some codpieces were
more conspicuous than others. The utilitarian codpiece was a simple,
unadorned sock that was the forerunner to today's button-fly crotch
feature. For those with bolder, or perhaps more insecure, egos,
the sock was more form-fitting and often padded. Foppish aristocrats
wore codpieces that were gilded, brocaded, and even decorated with
jewels. Spanish conquistadors in the 1500s—cocky from their exploits
in the Americas—created codpieces of priapic proportions. And Queen
Anne Boleyn reportedly once remarked to the visiting Italian Duke
Fabrizio of Bologna (well-known for being well-endowed), "Be
that thine codling, or art thou glad to see me?"
There are a few theories about the
origin of the codpiece. One theory is that it offered a comfortable
solution to the overly-restrictive and cumbersome hose worn by men.
By creating an opening at the crotch and covering it with a flap,
the codpiece maintained healthy bloodflow to the vitals.
Another interesting theory relates to Middle Age fashion. In the
fourteenth-century, Europeans were just as obsessed with height
as Americans are with thinness today. However, poor diet and the
plague kept many men from soaring to the statuesque ideal, so many
did whatever they could to create at least an illusion of height.
One of sartorial tricks they played was lowering the waistline of
the doublet skirt to the hips (giving the illusion of an elongated
trunk), while simultaneously raising the hemline so that it revealed
more of the leg. Voilà! Instant height.
But the re-engineering of the doublet
created an interesting by-product. You see, men
didn't wear boxers in those days. They
went, uh, commando. And according to some historians,
the leggings, or hose, they wore under their skirts were not unlike
the crotchless ones you might see at Frederick's of Hollywood—though
covering the legs, these leggings left the family jewels swinging
in the wind. So raising the skirt hemline naturally created quite
a show when a man sat down or mounted his horse.
Not that this was a problem, of course.
Modesty had different rules then, especially for the upper classes.
Consequently, men went romping all over Europe in their skimpy skirts
with their bits and pieces for all to see. But back then, even fashion
had a caste system and so when peasants began to flaunt
their phalluses (phallae?), too, the aristocrats concluded
that something had to be done. Their solution? A sumptuary law requiring
peasants to cover up. Apparently, baring one's herring was a privilege,
not a right, bestowed only on the landed gentry. Author Julian Robinson
explains:
[I]n 1348, when a number of British
merchants adopted this style of dress, a law was passed that restricted
the right to wear this fashion to the aristocracy; lesser mortals,
regardless of their wealth and natural physical endowments, had
to be content with padding their front crotch area so as to simulate
a continual erection, which at that time was perceived as a splendidly
alluring male characteristic. The law, however, was impossible
to enforce and the contemporary English commentator Chaucer remarked
in The Parson's Tale that many male garments 'were horribly scanty—too
short to cover their shameful members.' (Robinson, 52).
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